The dial is why I’d stop at this Zenith and Naoya Hida collaboration. The restrained layout and blue-filled numerals give the G.F.J. a clear identity without turning the double signature into a billboard. The ten-piece edition adds rarity; it does not answer the more interesting question of whether you love the watch itself.
My collector’s verdict: look past the edition number
I’d study the dial work and modern movement before discussing allocation. Keep the launch currency, actual local quote and any resale asking price separate. The Calibre 135 story deserves precision, not a blanket claim that this watch contains a restored competition movement. Buy the specific reference for its design and mechanics, not a promised return.
For very different mechanical-watch choices, compare Breitling’s Chronomat model comparison and Seiko’s Marinemaster references; they are not substitutes at the same price.
What is Zenith’s Double Signed Program?
The Double Signed Program connects a major manufacture with another watchmaking voice rather than simply changing a dial colour. Naoya Hida’s restrained approach gives this version its identity. Keep the Calibre 135’s broader history separate from the 135-O competition movements: Zenith’s release describes restored 1950s competition movements in a 2022 project, then a re-engineered modern calibre in the 2025 G.F.J. This 2026 collaboration builds on the modern revival, not an assumption that every Calibre 135 was made only for observatory trials.
The collaboration grew from a genuine connection between Zenith’s Chief Product Officer, Romain Marietta and founder Naoya Hida, who has admired the legendary Calibre 135 since the 1990s. The result is a watch that reads as a conversation between Swiss horological precision and Japanese artisanal craft, rather than a logo exercise—a unique dynamic embodied by the G.F.J. Calibre 135 partnership.
The watch: dial, case and movement
The platinum watch uses a solid-silver dial, but not every inscription is independently hand-carved. Zenith’s release distinguishes precision engraving of the double signatures from hand engraving of the three Arabic numerals, which are filled with blue Japanese urushi lacquer. That distinction is useful: the appeal lies in how the dial is made, not an inflated claim that every mark uses the same process. The gold hour and minute hands and blue small-seconds hand complete the visual treatment.
Flip it over, and a sapphire caseback reveals the hand-wound Calibre 135, offering a 72-hour power reserve and COSC certification, dressed with Geneva stripes, ruthenium treatment and yellow gold accents. Among current releases, the G.F.J. Calibre 135 stands out with technical highlights like a large variable-inertia balance wheel, a Breguet overcoil and Charles Fleck’s double arrow regulator — a serious watchmaking pedigree under a deliberately restrained exterior. It even arrives with three distinct straps: Himeji Kurozan leather, Kyoto Wagyu leather and Kaihara indigo denim. The case back is sapphire, so that movement is fully on display for anyone who wants to see the finishing up close.
Why UAE collectors will want this on their radar
The UAE has firmly established itself as one of the world’s most important luxury watch markets, home to a knowledgeable collector community and the global stage that is Dubai Watch Week. For the region’s connoisseurs, a platinum, dual-signed, 10-piece limited edition exemplifying G.F.J. Calibre 135 refinements is precisely the sort of release that gets collectors talking. Zenith has confirmed more Double Signed collaborations are coming, so this debut piece is worth watching for what it signals about the direction of the programme.
With production capped at 10 pieces worldwide, anyone in the region hoping to secure one will want to move quickly and enquire through Zenith’s official channels. For collectors who value rarity, provenance and a story as much as the watch itself, this is exactly the kind of release worth tracking down. Interested buyers should quote the reference 40.1865-2.0135/01.C220 when enquiring through Zenith’s official channels.
Frequently asked questions
How much does the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed cost?
Zenith’s launch release quotes CHF 58,900. This guide does not establish a current AED retail quote; confirm price, allocation, delivery and seller terms directly for reference 40.1865-2.0135/01.C220. A currency conversion is not proof of UAE stock or an authorised local price.
How many will be made?
Zenith specifies 10 pieces worldwide. The size of the edition does not establish present allocation, resale liquidity or investment value. Ask for the exact reference, condition, included documents and written seller terms rather than assuming rarity guarantees a premium.
What makes this watch special?
It launches Zenith’s Double Signed Program with Naoya Hida & Co. on a platinum G.F.J. The manufacturer distinguishes the precision-engraved double signatures from the three hand-finished or hand-engraved Arabic numerals with blue urushi. That is more precise than calling every inscription hand-carved or making an unsupported claim that this is the movement’s first-ever outside collaboration.
When was it released?
Zenith’s dated launch release is 2 June 2026. That identifies the announcement, not a current allocation, UAE delivery date or a guarantee that a ten-piece edition can still be ordered.
Our view and specification checks
Our view: the dial is the reason to study this collaboration, rather than treating a ten-piece run as an investment case. The launch narrative gives a 39.5mm case while its technical field gives 39.15mm. Its process descriptions also differ in wording: pantograph engraving followed by individual hand finishing in the narrative, versus hand engraving for the numerals in the technical section. Ask the brand to resolve those points for the exact watch rather than silently choosing the more attractive specification. Neither discrepancy changes the published 72-hour, hand-wound Calibre 135 description, but it does matter when comparing a collector’s specification sheet.
