This dedication to perfection is why Rolex’s collections remain not only relevant but aspirational. Every release reinforces the brand’s position as the pinnacle of craftsmanship and innovation, ensuring that collectors and enthusiasts alike eagerly await its next move.

Rolex’s enduring legacy is a testament to its ability to balance tradition and innovation, making it the benchmark by which all other watchmakers are measured.

10. Rolex Sky-Dweller

Introduced in 2012, the Sky-Dweller is one of Rolex’s newest models still in production, second only to the Precision 1908, which debuted even later. Designed as a high-end alternative to the GMT-Master, the Sky-Dweller caters to luxury travellers. While the GMT-Master appeals to pilots, the Sky-Dweller is crafted for those who own the private jet. This travel companion is as striking as it is functional, often available in gold and featuring a 42-mm case that reflects the bold, oversized design trends of its time.

9. Rolex Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II

Many Rolex models encapsulate the spirit of the era they were introduced. The GMT-Master, for instance, emerged in the 1950s, coinciding with the dawn of global air travel, while the Yacht-Master reflects the extravagant aesthetic of the 1990s. “How do you take a sports watch and make it appeal to a Monaco yacht club scene?” explains Lamdin, summarising the unique charm of the model. Interestingly, many experts rank the Yacht-Master more highly than expected, citing its enduring appeal.

Debuting in 1992, the Yacht-Master has been part of Rolex’s catalogue far longer than many realise. It offered the Crown an opportunity to take a diver-inspired watch and infuse it with luxurious details, such as gold cases and mother-of-pearl dials. This blend of sporty and opulent design struck a chord with collectors who appreciate a touch of flair, making the Yacht-Master a staple among Rolex enthusiasts.

The Yacht-Master II, introduced in 2007, further elevated the line with a practical and innovative complication: a regatta timer. Rolex has continued refining the model’s performance, tailoring it for on-the-water functionality. In 2021, sailor Ben Ainslie was seen sporting a prototype Yacht-Master crafted from ultra-light titanium—a material designed for durability and ease of wear. This prototype was later added to the main collection in 2023, marking yet another evolution in Rolex’s commitment to precision and innovation.

8. Rolex Sea-Dweller

The Submariner might be the quintessential dive watch in Rolex’s lineup, but the Sea-Dweller is the diver’s ultimate tool watch. “While the Submariner was designed for recreational scuba diving, the Sea-Dweller is for the James Camerons of the world, those who truly want to push the limits,” explains Golden. Rolex took the Submariner’s capabilities and amplified them, creating the Sea-Dweller as the next level of underwater innovation.

The Sea-Dweller embodies the spirit of exploration. Perhaps its most famous moment came when James Cameron took the Deepsea Challenge version of the watch to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, the deepest point on Earth. The model is a testament to Rolex’s knack for associating itself with monumental achievements—be it strapping an Oyster Perpetual onto Mercedes Gleitze as she swam the English Channel or equipping the climbers who first summited Mount Everest.

This model also benefits from Rolex’s unwavering strategy of perfecting its designs over decades. The Sea-Dweller evolved directly from the Submariner with one clear mission: to dive deeper in every sense—technically, physically, and symbolically. This ethos mirrors Rolex’s broader philosophy: to narrow its focus and refine each innovation until it reaches near-perfection, rather than pursuing a wide but shallow approach to its catalogue. It’s this relentless pursuit of excellence that ensures the Sea-Dweller’s place in the top tier of Rolex’s storied history.

7. Rolex Oyster and Oyster Perpetual

Before we dive deeper, let’s clarify: this is about the Oyster Perpetual watch line, not the Rolex technologies of the same name. The phrase “Oyster Perpetual” appears on nearly every Rolex watch, referring to two of the brand’s cornerstone innovations. “Oyster” signifies the waterproof case introduced in 1926, while “Perpetual” celebrates Rolex’s original automatic movement from 1931. Combined for the first time on a watch dial in 1945, these words represent one of the most revered phrases in Rolex’s storied history.

The Oyster Perpetual model, on the other hand, holds a place of historical importance in Rolex’s lineup, though it lacks the long-standing cult status of some other iconic models. What makes the modern OP stand out, however, is its playful spirit and accessibility, offering a gateway for casual collectors to join the Rolex universe. Recent releases highlight this light-hearted approach: consider the OP adorned with fern motifs or the vibrant collection of ’70s-inspired colourful dials. These bold designs ultimately paved the way for the hyped “Celebration” dial, a multicoloured masterpiece that initially retailed for AED 22,400 but now fetches upwards of AED 73,500 on the secondary market.

Over the years, some of Rolex’s quirkiest and most endearing creations have emerged under the Oyster Perpetual umbrella. The highly collectible Bubbleback, named for its distinctive rounded caseback, is an OP. Additionally, the line has been home to the legendary “star dials” of the 1950s, considered by many—including myself—to be grail-worthy pieces.

(For simplicity’s sake, I’m also grouping the Oyster Precision and Oysterdate under this category.)

6. Rolex Explorer and Explorer II

The original Explorer is a legendary timepiece born from one of history’s greatest achievements—the first successful ascent of Mount Everest. In 1953, Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary famously carried a Rolex Oyster Perpetual on their groundbreaking climb, a watch now affectionately referred to by collectors as the “Pre-Explorer.” Capitalising on this historic moment, Rolex launched the Explorer later that same year. What stands out most about the Explorer is its timeless simplicity. Seventy years on, the watch remains largely unchanged and has been in continuous production ever since. It’s still available in its classic 36-mm size—just like the version Hillary would have worn—featuring a clean, unfussy dial that works just as well in the office or at a formal dinner as it does on the summit of a treacherous mountain. The Explorer, on its own, exemplifies everything Rolex needs to dominate the field-watch category.

When consulting experts about rankings, the Explorer II generated some of the most divided opinions. Some placed it low on the list, questioning how a watch with a GMT movement and a chunky orange hand, designed for the niche purpose of cave diving, could rank highly. Others, like Jacek Kozubek of Tropical Watch, rated it above the original Explorer. Why? Simply put, it’s a watch people actually buy.

The Explorer II encapsulates the unique power of Rolex. How many other brands could design a watch for spelunking and have it become a top-seller across the industry? Probably none. While its intended use is undeniably specific, Rolex managed to deliver a design that transcends its niche. The bold orange hand adds a touch of character, making the watch as versatile in style as it is in functionality. For this reason, the Explorer II earns its place as one of the more compelling offerings in Rolex’s storied line-up.

5. Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II

We’ve now entered a fascinating part of the ranking, where almost every watch from here on has a valid claim to the top spot. “For me, the GMT ranks higher than the Submariner,” says Lamdin. While the Submariner’s minimalist design defines the modern sports watch, the GMT offers significantly more versatility and fun.

“The GMT builds on the foundational design of a sports watch perfected by the Submariner, but it adds complexity while reducing thickness, making it far more wearable,” Lamdin explains. Its adaptability is unmatched, inspiring Lamdin to channel his inner Dr. Seuss: “GMTs look amazing with matte dials or glossy dials, in steel, two-tone, or gold. They shine with ‘Root Beer’ dials and black-and-brown bezels, or with ‘Pepsi’ or ‘Coke’ bezels, and pair beautifully with both Oyster and Jubilee bracelets.”

Beyond its undeniable style, the GMT carries historical significance. It was specifically designed during the rise of commercial aviation to help Pan-Am pilots and crew track time in two time zones using its 24-hour hand. “The GMT is tied to a pivotal moment in human history—the world becoming a smaller, more connected place,” Lamdin notes. “That’s inherently more meaningful than just a watch that can dive deeper.”

For this ranking, the GMT is grouped together with its successor, the GMT-Master II, as the two models are closely linked. The GMT-Master II debuted in 1983, featuring a slightly bulkier movement that allowed the hour hand to be adjusted independently without disrupting the rest of the watch. This small yet practical improvement cemented its place as a quintessential travel companion.

The GMT isn’t just a functional masterpiece—it’s a watch that tells the story of a shrinking world and the rise of global travel, making it one of Rolex’s most iconic creations.

4. Rolex Day-Date

If this were simply a list of Rolex watches I fantasise about owning, the Day-Date would easily take the top spot. In 2022, after trying on the platinum reference 228236, I excitedly messaged my editor, declaring that the watch industry could pack it up—we’d reached perfection. The Day-Date strikes that ideal balance that Rolex pioneered. It’s not purely a sports watch; its classic yellow-gold design is far too luxurious for casual, everyday wear. Nor is it strictly a dress watch, though it pairs impeccably with a tailored suit. It delivers just the essentials—the time, date, and day of the week—and does so with elegance and flair. Flashy yet practical, it’s a timeless statement piece.

The Day-Date stands as one of the Crown’s most significant creations, introducing several groundbreaking firsts for Rolex and the watchmaking industry. Before the Day-Date, no timepiece spelled out all seven days of the week in full. It also debuted the aptly named “President” bracelet, which earned its moniker long before Lyndon B. Johnson and other Oval Office occupants made it their signature accessory. In my mind, this watch epitomises the ultimate “I’ve made it” statement.

What fascinates me about the Day-Date is how Rolex applied the same strategy that created its iconic models for adventurers and athletes—like the Submariner for divers, the Daytona for racers, and the Explorer for mountaineers—to the world of business and leadership. It’s a watch designed for those at the pinnacle of their field. Its impressive roster of wearers includes former President Johnson, Warren Buffett, and even the fictional but unforgettable Tony Soprano. The Day-Date is more than just a watch; it’s a symbol of success, power, and sophistication.

Yet the Daytona’s appeal isn’t just about its popularity—it carries immense historical significance for both Rolex and the wider watch industry. While the model had earlier chronograph predecessors, the Daytona has become the sole chronograph in Rolex’s current lineup. Introduced in 1963, it competed alongside other icons of the era, such as the Omega Speedmaster and TAG Heuer Carrera, but ultimately carved out its own legacy. Today, it represents Rolex’s enduring connection to the world of motorsport, embodying precision, performance, and prestige.

For collectors, the Daytona might be the single most important watch in existence. The most expensive vintage wristwatch ever sold is still Paul Newman’s personal Daytona, which fetched a staggering $17.8 million at auction in 2017. The reference 6239 “Paul Newman” model, distinguished by its unique dial configuration, remains one of the most coveted timepieces worldwide. Aurel Bacs, the Phillips auctioneer who facilitated that record-breaking sale, famously described the actor’s impact on Rolex collecting: “Unknowingly, Newman became the catalyst for why Rolex Daytonas are what they are today. His wearing that watch for 15 years was, in my view, the Adam and Eve moment in Rolex collecting.”

The Daytona isn’t just a watch; it’s a cultural phenomenon that has shaped the modern landscape of watch collecting. With its rich history and timeless appeal, the Daytona is certain to remain a grail piece for generations to come.

1. Rolex Submariner

I wish I could surprise you with an unconventional take—perhaps declaring the Space-Dweller as Rolex’s most important model ever. But reality inevitably leads us to the same conclusion anyone, even an Apple Watch-wearer on the street, would give: the Submariner isn’t just Rolex’s most important watch—it might be the most important watch of all time. Its cultural and historical significance is unmatched in the industry. “It’s arguably the most recognisable watch in the world and the one most closely associated with the brand,” says Lamdin. “If you close your eyes and think of a wristwatch, what comes to mind?” The answer is clear: a Rolex Submariner. Golden concurs, simply calling it, “the most iconic watch in the world.”

The Submariner’s legendary status is cemented by its countless milestones. The very first James Bond wore a Submariner. The first book Rolex ever published? A comprehensive Submariner bible. When Rolex introduced the model in 1953, it didn’t just alter the course of its own history—it changed the trajectory of the entire watchmaking industry. The Submariner redefined what a sports watch could be, establishing a new standard and paving the way for Rolex’s focus on purpose-built tool watches.

For collectors, the Submariner is a treasure trove of possibilities. Entire lifetimes—and fortunes—could be spent chasing down the endless variations of this iconic timepiece. From rugged stainless-steel versions to MilSubs crafted for military use, and even extravagant white-gold models encrusted with diamonds for the ultra-wealthy, there’s a Submariner for every taste and budget. And that’s a good thing, considering its audience spans the globe.

The Submariner’s universal appeal, enduring legacy, and unrivalled influence make it the definitive Rolex—and perhaps the definitive wristwatch in horological history.